Clean the CD-RW
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
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When we get errors such as unwanted
calibration area is full or we get a nice buffer underrun or CD-ROM / writer of a sudden does not read any CD, or starts to "complain" emitting strange noises, etc.. despite having followed all the advice to avoid (and assuming that the unit already has at least one year old approx.), may be the time to make a "fine tuning" of the recorder (instructions are also valid for a drive type CD-ROM).
Cleaning the optical disk reading devices, such as tape recorders and CD-ROM, is a task far more relevant than it seems. If these units clean well and above all its lens, are fundamental tasks in its maintenance, once beyond the year-old or so (there are models that hold more and others not). And above all it has to do well, not crazy, because we could mis the lens, and that does not want to happen.
TOOLS REQUIRED: Ø
Phillips screwdriver to open the tower and remove.
or screwdriver small flat blade (width of 0.25mm).
Ø Two brushes, one medium (No. 10) and one small (No. 2).
or tweezers. Ø Several
hygienic cotton swabs.
STARTED:
opened the tower, remove the recorder, and proceed to remove the really small screws holding the casing of the recorder. Depending on the device, we can remove the skin from the top, the bottom or both.
FROM THE TOP:
Where to choose, we will remove the top cover, because then we can go directly to the lens, without do anything else. If this is your case, skip to clean the lens.
FROM THE BOTTOM:
We played a ground for static electricity discharges (the chassis of the computer power supply, for example). You can also use a more technical approach is to use a "shock bracelet", for it put a wire from the nearest ground and a 1MW resistor in series, and surround the wrist that will manipulate the optical welded wire (better internal antenna coaxial cable). So while we take the cable will always be free of static electricity.
Now we will see a large integrated circuit board with a series of cables going into the engine's CD-ROM. Remove the plate (secured with screws), being careful not to disconnect the cables, or, if you have to disconnect one, carefully where you sign each. Once removed the plate, we see the motor above the rails, and mounted above the rails, the lens. If you look all these components are in a kind of box set with the rest of the chassis by means of hooks. The front hooves are removed by prying, and pushing them back down with a small screwdriver. With this we will get all the cash, and we can work peacefully.
General view of the bottom of a SCSI 3600, with the motor and circuitry.
GENERAL CLEANING:
Before proceeding it is appropriate to emphasize the three rules of this phase of cleaning:
1 .- not under any circumstances touch the laser lens. If for any reason we noticed that we have touched lightly with some of the brushes should not be alarmed as there should have been out of calibration, but yes, avoid contact at all times.
2 .- not ever blow into the unit. In many instances, certainly more than one may be tempted to get rid a set of dust and dirt varies with a good blow, well, I just get with it is damage the internal electronics, as the human breath is composed, apart from the exhaust air of particles of saliva and moisture negatively affect any electronic component.
3 .- If cleaning is done with patience, knowing that last at least an hour, the operation will end with total success. In contrast, if done in haste, it is likely that the unit is clean and even come to malfunction.
VERY GENTLY blow up the lens and photoreceptor (if available). Prepare a ear cleaning stick, water and / or alcohol. Alcohol can be dangerous, since there is a plastic components made of very bad, which could react with the alcohol rendering them useless. Although very limited way, in fact I have not seen any. Recorders doubt there is any, and CD-ROMs may be the competitor. With distilled water works well, but you can also use isopropyl alcohol, because their properties in the chemical composition, make it especially suitable for these purposes.
Well, stick soaked with the product that we choose, without dripping. Next, carefully clean both metal guides were analyzed using the rods hygiene and product. We'll have to try to pour the liquid just to avoid a possible drain excess fluid in any area of \u200b\u200bthe drive electronics. Once clean, proceed to lubricate both rails using the lubricating oil specially designed for electronic devices, or alternatively, multi-purpose lubricating oil. In both cases we need to expand the right amount of oil as the excess can be carried by the laser lens, becoming deposited on top of anything sensible. It is certainly very little amount to be used is essentially a protective film and grease you have to expand, nothing more.
Close-up of motor and lens.
GREASE:
Theoretically there should be no oil, since it is assumed that the well-oiled unit leaves the factory (not always true). To see if this well oiled, you look at the rails by moving the lens. If you have a lot of dirt (lint, dust, etc) or fat has become like rubber (instead of being viscous) as it is best to thoroughly clean the rails, without leaving traces of the old grease, and apply some type heat-resistant grease, prepared for metal and plastic. Apply for all the tracks (but not fill all of fat. Excess fat is not good) and gently push the lens. If no resistance, move along the rails a few times to lubricate it. If there is resistance, we refrain from forcing it and after mounting the drive put an audio CD in it and go from first to last song a few times. Once finished the process, re-mount the drive with care.
IMPORTANT CONSIDERATIONS:
- Never clean the lens when the recorder / CD-ROM is under warranty, since opening means losing the warranty. In these cases it is best to take it to the store, you change it, and it cleaned them if they want.
- Do not go to clean the first problem I was present. Try before other solutions that do not involve opening the device as you open the device if not done right, can have worse consequences.
- Do not use cleaning CDs, since they are useless and may eventually reach the lens scratching or mis.
- Long eye to disassemble the unit. Everything must be done very smoothly, especially when handling the circuit board and to remove the lens box. Descargaos static electricity, which nobody does even though that puts it in all directions. Charge would be stupid for not wanting to drive for a few seconds to touch ground.
- If you are one of those you are afraid to open anything on the computer, you can always call a friend who knows. If you have no friend, a CD-ROM agenciaos old practice with him.
From: http://www.configurarequipos.com
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